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Learning Objective: Understand what is included in this module


Chocolate bonbon technique and production

"My Ideas come from within. Its rare I get an idea from tasting something, but rather from conversations, emotions, reading, meeting. I write my ideas down in diagram form first, then recipes . I have what I call a scenario of taste - I imagine this in a sequence as you bite into the cake - what happens first, what happens second, what may provide a surprise in the middle. And because only taste matters, I avoid embelishments that bring no contributions to the flavors, nor add anything to the combinations." Pierre Herme as told to Food Arts Magazine

This module introduces you to the making of chocolates or bonbons (as the European's call them). Your goal is to become proficient in working with chocolate (including chocolate enrobing, dipping, decorating and molding) in order to produce a consistent product each and every time.

You'll understand all the flavors and formulations that go into producing a flavorful center for your chocolates. This not only includes chocolate truffle centers but also caramel, fruit, fondant and nut recipes among others.

In the early 1900s, chocolate confections were based on recipes that produced three major textures: creams, chews and crunches. All were made from sugar-based recipes. The creams were based on fondant, fudge, marshmallow or buttercream recipes with typical flavorings such as mint, fruit flavors, coffee and chocolate. The chews were based on caramel or molasses recipes and often included nuts. The crunches were usually combined with nuts and based on hard boil sugar recipes such as brittle and toffee or solid chocolate barks. You can still see these classic flavors in most chocolate shops across North America and Europe.

Not much changed until the late 1900s when chocolate truffles were invented. Chocolate lovers appreciated the deep chocolate flavor of the truffle’s chocolate ganache center and some of the more exotic flavor combinations created by the new chocolatiers. Classic chocolate makers embraced the trend, adding truffles and ganaches to their product offerings.

With the proliferation of chocolate truffles in chocolate shops now, I think we need to update the classic three textures to four: creams, chews, crunches and chocolate! Suck on a little bit of chocolate and you’ll see that it definitely has a texture all its own.

Ecole Chocolat Note: In doing my research of chocolate shops across North America, I was struck by the popularity of the following kinds of chocolate confections. It seems you can find them in different versions and flavors on almost every chocolate counter. Here is a list by texture:

Creamy confections – flavor that melts in your mouth and sometimes down your chin

  • Butter creams: creamy fondant sugar flavored with fruit, spice or nut flavors. Maple, orange or vanilla are always favorites.
  • Peanut butter cups: smooth or crunchy peanut butter is the perfect match for chocolate
  • Peppermint Patties: either thick or thin – the refreshing favorite

Chewy – confections to savor and eat slowly

  • Turtles: rich caramel, toasted nuts and chocolate combine crunchy and chewy textures. How popular are these confections? If you do a search on the Internet, you’ll find them mentioned on over 1,880,000 pages. The big manufacturers have their versions such as Nestlé Turtles and Turtle Doves by Dove Chocolate.
  • Caramels: okay, these can be creamy as well but most have a least a little chewiness.
  • Cherry Cordials: maraschino cherries combined with a sweet creamy fondant filling all covered in chocolate

Crunchy – sweet and/or nutty hunks of flavor to chomp on

  • English Toffee or Butter Crunch: butter, nuts and sugar usually cooked in a copper kettle, covered in chocolate and rolled in chopped roasted nuts: think Almond Roca
  • Sponge Toffee (also called cinderblock, seafoam or honeycomb): a crispy sugar concoction that is the perfect foil to smooth chocolate.
  • Nut Clusters and Nut Bark – just chocolate and roasted nuts for the purist

Chocolate – my new category of texture that is smooth, silky and fills your mouth with flavor

  • Truffles: all chocolate inside and out combining chocolate, cream and sometimes butter or eggs with flavorings that can be fruit, spice, nut or liqueur based. Mocha is a winner.
  • Meltaways: a cross between truffles and fudge. Mint is king (think Frangos). They get their melting quality because of eutecticsof incompatible fats. When cocoa butter and another fat such as coconut or palm oil are mixed the resultant combination melts at a much lower temperature in your mouth, resulting in a "melting" mouth feel.
  • Fudge: the American chocolate bite with a dense slightly gritty texture. Most commonly paired with nuts such as walnut
  • Non-pareil: pure chocolate dropped on a bed of sprinkles.
  • Break-up: just give me a piece of that big hunk of chocolate – dark, milk or white
  • Chocolate Dipped Goodies: I found that chocolate makers are out there dipping a lot of things in chocolate such as pretzels, cookies (especially Oreo’s), strawberries, popcorn, even potato chips.

I created the "master" recipes in this module to give you an understanding of the major recipes used inside chocolates. There are so many recipes on the Internet that if you want other recipes for toffee for example, just put "toffee recipe" in your favorite search engine (I got 52,800 related links when I did that exercise) and you'll have lots of specific recipes to use for further experimentation.

Understanding why our mantra "practice, practice and more practice" works.

Just as some of you struggled to have a successful tempering session, recipe development is all about practice. Don't be discouraged if your first attempts at a recipe don't work out a beautifully as you imagined. We don't expect you to be perfect - you are a student not a master. Mastery takes making the same recipe or technique over and over and over. How much time? Here is a cute article from Wired Magazine that attempts to put a number of hours needed to become proficient in something - maybe even chocolate work :o)

Ms. Know-It-All: Stitching Wounds and Other Things You Can Master in 34 Hours

by Willa Paskin, Wired, 12.24.13

An app says it can teach me the basics of a foreign language in 34 hours. Is that the best thing I could learn in 34 hours?

As you race through the work week, 34 hours—Monday morning to Tuesday afternoon—seems like no time at all; it doesn’t even get you to hump day. But when it comes to learning something new, 34 hours is “a huge amount of time,” says John Wiseman, an adviser to online education site Skillshare. “You could learn top to bottom how to design a website in that time.”

Thirty-four hours is shorter than a semester-long college course, but if you’re the only student, far more intensive. (This is why that Duolingo app enables basic proficiency in a language after an average of 34 hours.) “You may not get to Malcolm Gladwell levels of mastery,” Wiseman says, “but you can get a really big start” on just about any new skill.

With 34 hours, you could become a badass in the kitchen. I’d learn to cook with mouth-singeing Szechuan peppercorns. Scared of pepper heat? In 34 hours you could bake 34 soufflès, enough practice to ensure yours never fall, or roast a 110-pound pig three times. You don’t need half that time to learn to juggle or master basic sleight of hand. You need only 30 hours of practice to get certified as a recreational pilot. (It may take more time to earn the cash to afford the plane.) With 34 hours, you could even get proficient at stitching a wound—if you find anyone who will let you practice.

Thirty-four hours won’t turn you into a pro—but it will enable you to imagine actually getting good.

 

 

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